Description: Active form of vitamin C that is fat-soluble and more stable but somewhat less potent than L-ascorbic acid when incorporated into products. Purity >98.0%. White-yellowish powder, odorless. Soluble in oil at 115 C and alcohol, water-insoluble.
INCI Name: L-ascorbyl palmitate
Benefits:
- Oil-soluble form of vitamin C
- Potent antioxidant. Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin
- Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots
- Antioxidant effect can be increased by combining L-ascorbyl palmitate with L-ascorbic acid and/or vitamin E
Use: Add to hot fat phase or emulsifier phase of formulas; if it does not dissolve completely add vitamin C and some oil to a mortar and blend the mixture thoroughly with the pestle; suitable solvent: ethoxydiglycol; typical concentration 0.2-3 %. For external use only.
Applications: Lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, shampoos, makeup products.
The optimal pH of formulations containing ascorbyl palmitate is 5.5, which is around the skin's natural pH.
INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate
The vitamin, which is actually water-soluble, only becomes fat-soluble through esterification with palmitic acid. This makes it much more stable than the water-soluble vitamin-C. In combination with vitamin E, its antioxidant effect is prolonged and fats are better protected against oxidation. Because this vitamin-C palmitate has a regenerating effect on the connective tissue, it is preferred in anti-aging products and also for impure, inflamed skin.
Processing:
It is dissolved in the fat phase at approx. 110° C.
Application concentration:
in preparations for daily use: 0.2 to 5%
impure skin/acne: 5%
protection against UV light induced damage: 2%
for product stabilisation: up to 0.2%